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Arriving early in the morning after an overnight bus, we stumbled into the trendy old town area of Candelaria, and settled into one of the many little hostels hiding in the narrow streets. After a shower and a typically delicious Colombian breakfast – huevos pericos and great coffee – we set out into the world refreshed. We had a morning of visa chores in the northern part of the city, and then took the mighty new transport system – the Trans-Millenio (a fast and efficient though crowded bus service connecting the north and the south) back to Candelaria, to explore the student area, filled with little cosy cafes and bars, museums and plenty of street action.

We broke our record for museum viewing, visiting the Bolero gallery (Colombia’s most famous artist, renowned for his depictions of everything chubby-  people, birds, fruit and instruments) followed closely by the Museo de Oro (Musuem of Gold, renowned for it’s huge collection of metal works from the native indigenous groups). Needing a post museum pick up we made the most of the cities best coffee spots, filling up on some rare delicious baked goods (the bakeries in Colombia are dire).

Wandering the streets of the old city was enough to fill in the rest of our time. Lovely narrow lanes crowded on either side by houses and shops leading to squares and plazas, bustling with people, small bars and street food.

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